Hine Homage to Thomas Hine

Hine Homage to Thomas Hine 

Brandy: Cognac

From: Grande Champagne

House: Hine

Style: Blend

Colour: Amber

ABV: 40%

N: Grape must, elderflower, raisins, honey, vanilla, hints of cloves. 

M: Light body, loosens, airy, slippery. 

T: Bitter. Walnuts, coffee, quinces, honey, grape must, chocolate. 

F: Medium. Chocolate, quinces, honey, hints of elderflower. 

Comments:

A lovely, simple cognac, lots of strong but complementary flavours. Fruit, chocolate and floral notes layered very nicely over each other, with some bitter nutty flavours to add complexity. I’ve always enjoyed Hine cognacs, they’re well constructed and interesting. 

Verdict:

I like this. 

Michel Huard Vieux Calvados

Michel Huard Vieux Calvados

Brandy: Calvados

From: AOC Calvados

House: Michel Huard

Style: Single distillery

Colour: Dark gold, tinge of green 

ABV: 40%

N: Butterscotch, toffee, baked apples, fresh baked bread, sea salt, hints of smoke. 

M: Heavy body, thickens, mouth coating, oily. 

T: Sweet sour. Honey, toffee, baked apples, fresh baked bread, vanilla, hints of fig jam. 

F: Long. Menthol, fig jam, fresh baked bread, honey. 

Comments:

Excellent Calvados. I really enjoyed this, silky, heavy, pleasant on on the tongue, with matching complexity in terms of layers of flavour. This is almost sherried, with lots of cooked fruit and honey. 

Verdict:

I like this a lot. 

Courvoisier VS

Courvoisier VS

Brandy: Cognac 

From: ?

House: Courvoisier 

Style: Blend 

Colour: Amber

ABV: 40%

N: Prunes, honeycomb, black pepper, vanilla, hints of black tea. 

M: Light body, cool, loose, slippery. 

T: Sweet. Blackberries, black pepper, vanilla, sour cherries, honeycomb, hints of prunes. 

F: Long. Sour cherries, black pepper, coffee, hints of chocolate. 

Comments:

Entry level expression from Courvoisier. It’s rather Armagnac-ey, lots of prune notes, especially on the nose, but these then turn to sour cherries and blackberries on the tongue. Nice long bitter finish. 

Verdict:

I like this. 

Hine Bonneuil 2008

 Hine Bonneuil 2008

Brandy: Cognac

From: Grande Champagne

House: Hine

Style: Single distillery, single vintage 

Colour: Golden

ABV: 42.7%

N: Red grapes, grape must, raisins, honey, cloves, hints of quince.  

M: Medium body, thickens slightly, slippery, warm. 

T: Sweet sour. Grape must, honey, quinces, cherries, fresh baked bread, hints of cloves. 

F: Short. Cherries, honey, fresh baked bread, coffee. 

Comments: 

A single distillery, single vineyard cognac from Hine. It’s quite distinctive, lots of cough mixture cherry flavour, along with an odd feeling of under-fermented grape. It’s not unpleasant, rather it’s oddly smooth and drinkable. The strength is hardly noticeable, other than the slightly more intense flavour notes. Anyway, I’ve spent years drinking cask strength whisky, and my taste buds are rather insensitive by now. 

Verdict:

I like this. 

Baron de Sigognac XO Platinum

Baron de Sigognac XO Platinum

Brandy: Armagnac

From: Bas Armagnac

House: Baron de Sigognac 

Style: Blend

Colour: Amber gold

ABV: 40%

N: Leather, prunes, tobacco leaf, vanilla ice cream, hints of farmyard. 

M: Light body, thickens slightly, tingly, warm. 

T: Sweet. Black tea, prunes, tobacco leaf, vanilla ice cream, candied oranges, hints of coffee. 

F: Short. Black tea, candied oranges, coffee, walnut skins, hints of farmyard. 

Comments:

I’ve not had too many from this negociant before, but it’s a popular house. This is a little bit of a premium version, and it’s that little bit more complex. Lots of fruit, sure, with the standard pruneaux notes, but also a lot of savoury, even slightly wild ‘smelly’ notes. Not too sweet either, always a plus in my book. 

Verdict:

I like this. 

Frapin 1270

Frapin 1270

Brandy: Cognac

From: Grande Champagne

House: Frapin

Style: Single distillery

Colour: Amber

ABV: 40%

N: Raisins, strawberries, candied oranges, black tea, hints of coffee. 

M: Medium body, cool, slippery, expands. 

T: Sweet. Strawberries, vanilla ice cream, coffee, fresh baked bread, cherries, hints of chocolate. 

F: Medium. Coffee, cherries, chocolate, vanilla ice cream. 

Comments:

This tastes like an entry-level expression from Frapin, and is certainly lighter than some of the other cognacs that I’ve tried from that house. It’s not as deep or intense, instead, it’s rather gentle, with lighter fruit notes and some bitter sweet coffee notes. Highly enjoyable nevertheless.  

Verdict:

I like this. 

Camus VSOP Borderies 2017

Camus VSOP Borderies 2017

Brandy: Cognac

From: Borderies

House: Camus

Style: Single distillery, single vintage 

Colour: Teak

ABV: 40%

N: Cinnamon, raisins, orange peel, milk chocolate, allspice. 

M: Medium body, cool, thickens slightly, slippery. 

T: Sweet sour. Orange peel, milk chocolate, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, hints of damson jam. 

F: Long. Walnut skins, coffee, cinnamon, hints of milk chocolate. 

Comments:

Couple of firsts today - first cognac from Borderies and first coñac from Camus. It’s single vintage too! Lots of milk chocolate and cinnamon and cloves. Slightly gingery around the edges, quite enjoyable. Not incredible though, perhaps my expectations are too high. 

Verdict:

I like this. 

Sullivan’s Cove Single Cask Brandy

Sullivan’s Cove Single Cask Brandy

Brandy: Australian Brandy

From: Tasmania

House: Sullivan’s Cove 

Style: Single distillery, single vintage 

Colour: Pale amber

ABV: 50.5%

N: Chocolate, toffee, orange, salt caramel, butterscotch, cashews, hints of smoke. 

M: Light body, warm, tingly, loosens slightly. 

T: Salty sweet. Toffee, salt caramel, chocolate, orange peel, butterscotch, hints of tobacco leaf. 

F: Long. Molasses, butterscotch, salt caramel, chocolate, hints of orange peel. 

Comments:

Barrel TDB009. The master distiller at Sullivan’s Cove has a background in wine, and this brandy is one of the things she makes that harks back to her roots. It’s very good, fragrant and fruity, with a savoury edge. It’s not like the whisky at all, which is, oddly, sweeter than the brandy. It’s is lip smacking though. 

Verdict:

I like this a lot. 

Cognac Leyrat XO Vielle Reserve

 Cognac Leyrat XO Vielle Reserve

Brandy: Cognac

From: Fins Bois

House: Leyrat

Style: Single distillery

Colour: Amber

ABV: 40%

N: red grapes, leather, grape must, sea salt, honey, hints of fresh cut grass. 

M: Heavy body, sticky, thickens, mouth coating. 

T: Sweet salty. Blackcurrant cordial, leather, black tea, honey, sea salt, fresh cut grass. 

F: Medium. Black tea, walnuts, fresh cut grass, hints of cinnamon. 

Comments:

Rather savoury this. It’s got classic cognac flavours, it’s a bit Ribena-like, slight overtones of cough mixture, but that is quickly overtaken by savoury herbal flavours, rather like sitting in a meadow. Very enjoyable indeed. 

Verdict:

I like this.  

Hine Antique XO

Hine Antique XO

Brandy: Cognac

From: Grande Champagne

House: Hine

Style: Blend

Colour: Amber gold

ABV: 40%

N: red grapes, honey, raisins, sesame, pears, hints of chocolate. 

M: light body, cool, loose, slippery. 

T: Sweet. Cherries, honey, chocolate, raisins, fresh baked bread, pears, raspberries. 

F: Medium. Mint, fresh baked bread, cherries, chocolate. 

Comments:

Hine is rapidly becoming one of my favourite cognac houses, along with NAUD. I find Hine cognacs sweet and gentle, but with layers of flavours. This one has cherries and chocolate, and is absolutely delicious. 

Verdict:

I like this a lot. 

Somerset Cider Brandy 10yo

Somerset Cider Brandy 10yo

Brandy: Cider Brandy

From: Somerset

Style: Single distillery 

House: Somerset Cider Brandy

Colour: Dark gold

ABV: 42%

N: Apples, vanilla fudge, black tea, cinnamon, caramel. 

M: Heavy body, slippery, warm, tingly. 

T: Bitter sweet. Apples, vanilla fudge, walnuts, fresh baked bread, shortcrust pastry, hints of cinnamon. 

F: medium. Black tea, vanilla fudge, walnuts, cinnamon. 

Comments:

Brandy ages differently, I think, from whisky, and different fruit spirits age differently from each other too. Whisky develops complexity, gains sweet flavours from the wood, whilst brandy, already sweet to begin with, gains accents, by which I mean certain flavours are emphasised. Does the wood contribute flavour notes? Probably, but I find that I can’t discern them as easily in brandy as I can in whisky. 

Anyway, this is luscious and bittersweet stuff, very appley, but also redolent with walnuts and tea. It’s perhaps the brandy version of a sherried whisky. 

Verdict:

I like this a lot. 

Cognac Leyrat VSOP

Cognac Leyrat VSOP

Brandy: Cognac

From: Fins Bois

House: Leyrat

Style: Single distillery

Colour: Dark gold

ABV: 40%

N: Chocolate, prunes, raisins, coffee, sea salt. 

M: Medium body, slippery, warm, slightly tingly. 

T: Sweet salty. Butterscotch, sea salt, raisins, prunes, hints of cinnamon. 

F: Short. Blackcurrant cordial, cinnamon, sea salt, butterscotch. 

Comments:

Quite a savoury brandy, with notes of pruneaux. Almost Armagnac like, it’s reasonably robust, and doesn’t have much of the delicate nature that I associate with cognac. But maybe I’m susceptible to marketing - is Armagnac really less delicate than cognac? I suppose I need to taste a really old cognac to compare. 

Verdict:

I like this. 

Jules Gautret VSOP

Jules Gautret VSOP

Brandy: Cognac

From: Petite Champagne

House: Jules Gautret

Style: Blend

Colour: Amber

ABV: 40%

N: cloves, raisins, chocolate, coffee, white grapes, hints of cedar. 

M: heavy body, thickens, cool, sticky. 

T: Sweet salty. Coffee, blackcurrant cordial, cloves, cedar, menthol, sea salt. 

F: Short. Chocolate, coffee, sea salt, fresh baked bread. 

Comments:

A very straightforward brandy, this one is a little like savoury cough mixture. There are notes of cloves, an old remedy for chesty coughs, a very strong note of blackcurrant cordial, typical cough mixture flavouring, and something salty, reminiscent of a quack cure for a cough, gargling with salt water. 

Definitely a brandy for the times of Covid. 

Verdict:

I like this. 

Adrien Camut 6yo

 Adrien Camut 6yo

Brandy: Calvados

From: Pays d’Auge

House: Adrien Camut

Style: Single distillery 

Colour: Amber

ABV: 41%

N: Apples, butterscotch, raisins, orange blossom, hints of chocolate. 

M: Medium body, thickens, syrupy, tingly. 

T: Bitter. Butterscotch, pears, chocolate, raisins, apples, cloves, honey. 

F: Medium. Black tea, coffee, honey, apples. 

Comments:

This little Calvados from Adrien Camut isn’t like its older siblings. Those were floral, quite spirit forward, with some woody, almost dusty notes. This one is a lot younger, less than a third of their ages, and is much heavier. 

There’s a whisper of orange blossom on the nose, but that’s probably the only point of commonality. Instead there are bitter chocolate and coffee notes. Although the mouth feel isn’t heavy, it’s much less subtle than the older ones, with bold flavours. 

Verdict:

I like this. 

NAUD XO

NAUD XO

Brandy: Cognac

From: Grande Champagne

Style: Single distillery

House: NAUD

Colour: Walnut

ABV: 40%

N: Dried figs, raisins, black pepper, chocolate, coffee, sea salt. 

T: Light body, cool, slightly astringent, tingly. 

M: Bitter sweet. Cloves, dried figs, black pepper, olive oil, sea salt, chocolate. 

F: Medium. Black pepper, coffee, sea salt, olive oil, walnut skins. 

Comments:

I really do like NAUD cognac. It’s spicy and sweet, with lots of lovely dried fig notes and a dry tannic bitterness. I gather that the expressions aren’t that old either, to the lower end of the age ranges for each designation. Despite that, they’re complex and subtle, while packing a huge amount of sweetness.

This one also has an oily, slightly salty character to it, which goes very well with chocolate. I nibbled on some dark chocolate with the dregs of my brandy, it offset the complexity of the spirit very well indeed. 

Verdict:

I like this a lot. 

Whalebone Cask Aged Brandy

 Whalebone Cask Aged Brandy

Brandy: Australian Brandy

From: Western Australia 

Style: Single distillery

Colour: Amber

ABV: 40%

N: peppermint, red grapes, black pepper, honeydew melons, hints of peaches. 

M: Medium body, tingly, static, cool. 

T: Sweet. Red grapes, black pepper, black tea, peaches, hints of anise. 

F: Medium. Black tea, coffee, black pepper, red grapes, anise. 

Comments:

This brandy is from a whisky distillery, or at least, I think its core product is distilled grain spirit aged in wood. Nevertheless it’s quite tasty, and different from the usual European brandies that I tend to have. I’m not sure there is a style to Australian brandies in the same way that Australian whiskies are developing a style, but it’s distinctive all the same. 

No age statement of course, but that’s hardly unusual. Lots of peppery spicy notes, which is the distinctive bit. It’s quite sweet, which leads me to believe it’s quite young. Exciting hints of anise, something fairly unusual in my experience. 

Verdict:

I like this. 

Pierre Ferrand 10 Generations

 Pierre Ferrand 10 Generations

Brandy: Cognac

From: Grande Champagne

Style: Single distillery

House: Pierre Ferrand

Colour: Bright gold

ABV: 46%

N: tobacco leaf, hazelnuts, sultanas, pineapples, hints of pears, hints of fresh baked bread 

M: heavy body, syrupy, thickens, sticky

T: bitter sweet. Pineapples, fresh baked bread, sultanas, vanilla, honey, peaches

F: long. Fresh baked bread, cinnamon, honey, peaches, hints of tobacco leaf

Comments:

A cognac available only once in 10 generations, as the marketing spiel would have it. It’s not half bad, almost luscious in its mouth feel. Not too many raisins in here, there’s some nutty, slightly woody notes, and a herbal hit of tobacco. Lovely stuff. 

Verdict:

I like this a lot. 

Christian Drouin VSOP

 Christian Drouin VSOP

Brandy: Calvados

From: Pays d’Auge

Style: Single distillery

House: Christian Drouin

Colour: Yellow gold

ABV: 40%

N: malted grains, black pepper, apples, honey, hints of banana.

M: heavy body, thickens, slippery, slightly tingly. 

T: bitter sweet. Apples, black pepper, vanilla, barley rusk, hints of fresh baked bread, hints of banana  

F: short. Vanilla, banana, pears, fresh baked bread. 

Comments:

Quite a complex calvados, with cereally notes, some spice and some quite un-calvados like bananas. Quite enjoyable, there’s some aged spirit in this if I’m any judge (of course, there’s a chance that I’m not). 

Verdict:

I like this. 

Frapin VSOP

Frapin VSOP

Brandy: Cognac

From: Grande Champagne

Style: Blend

House: Frapin

Colour: Amber

ABV: 40%

N: prunes, raisins, cinnamon, honey, hints of red grapes. 

M: medium body, cool, slippery, loosens

T: Sweet. Menthol, blackcurrant cordial, honey, cinnamon, red grapes, hints of rolled oats. 

F: Medium. Menthol, blackcurrant cordial, fresh baked bread, cinnamon. 

Comments:

A blended Frapin, but one that displays the same grapey, fruity flavours as the XO I had recently. Hopefully this is the house character. I’m very keen to try more expressions from this house. 

Are there house characters in cognac, just as there are distillery characters with whisky? I don’t know for sure but there seems to be a house style for some brandies. There are relatively few independent expressions of course, so the houses can blend distillate to create a certain style without indies coming in and mucking up their branding. 

Verdict:

I like this a lot. 

Uno et Mil Solera Gran Reserva

Uno et Mil Solera Gran Reserva

Brandy: Brandy de Jerez
From: Jerez
Style: Single distillery
House: Sanchez Romate
Colour: Amber
ABV: 40%

N: Raisins, vanilla, honey, coffee, walnuts, hints of dark chocolate.

M: light body, loose, warm, astringent.

T: Bitter. Honey, dark chocolate, date honey, coffee, hints of iron filings.

F: medium. Honey, dark chocolate, coffee, black tea, hints of orange peel.

Comments:

“One in a million”, this is Sanchez Romate’s entry-level expression of Jerez brandy. It’s lighter than the older expressions, with just a little hint of rancio, presenting as a slightly metallic note on the tongue. It’s quite complex, lots of bittersweet notes, lots of fragrant, almost herbal flavours. 

A solera aging tends to produce this style in whisky, that is, a blend of ‘older’ flavour notes - like rancio and tobacco - as well as ‘younger’ flavour notes - like fruit and nuts. I do enjoy it when I can find it, but it’s relatively rare, for both whisky and brandy. 

Verdict:

I like this a lot. 

Hermitage 20yo

Hermitage 20yo

Brandy: Cognac
From: Grande Champagne
Style: Single distillery
House: Hermitage
Colour: Amber red
ABV: 42%

N: Raisins, leather, tobacco leaf, tonka bean, black pepper.

M: Heavy body, slippery, syrupy, slightly chewy.

T: Bitter. Cherry, lemon zest, raisins, tonka bean, tobacco leaf, hints of watermelon.

F: Long. Cherry, raisins, tobacco leaf, leather, hints of watermelon.

Comments:

A rather medicinal tasting cognac, with a lush vanilla-like flavour note that I liken to tonka bean. There's also some intense cherry notes on the tongue and the finish, rather like cherry-flavoured court medicine, and some light rancio, presenting as tobacco leaf and leather. It's not quite as delicious as the 45yo Segonzac, but it's very good indeed.

Turns out 20yo cognac is indeed delicious. Well of course it is - time is always a friend of a spirit. As long as you age it properly, in wood, and it has to be good wood.

Verdict:

I like this a lot.

Pere Magloire XO Calvados

Pere Magloire XO Calvados

Brandy: Calvados
From: Pays d'Auge
Style: Single distillery
House: Pere Magloire
Colour: Amber copper
ABV: 40%

N: baked apples, cinnamon, honey, blackcurrant cordial, hints of butter.

M: Medium body, loosens, slippery, turns airy.

T: Sweet. Cinnamon, baked apples, lemon zest, lime zest, butterscotch.

F: Long. Lemon zest, butterscotch, cinnamon, raisins.

Comments:

Another Pays d'Auge house, a region that seems to deliver bold spirits, lots of flavour, with intense apple notes. There's a lot of other stuff besides apple too, buttery dairy notes, some spice, and some really pleasant blackcurrant.

Unlike whisky, there's a real dearth of material available online about different kinds of brandies. There's quite a bit on cognac, a fair bit on armagnac, not a lot on calvados, and precious little on all the other categories of brandies that I've tasted and reviewed. In my own little way I hope to add to the knowledge available online for these great drinks.

Verdict:

I like this.

Hermitage 45yo Segonzac (2nd Release)

Hermitage 45yo Segonzac (2nd Release)

Brandy: Cognac
From: Grande Champagne
Style: Single distillery
House: Hermitage
Colour: Walnut
ABV: 43.5%

N: molasses, raisins, tobacco leaf, prunes, dried apricots, dried pears.

M: Medium body, tingly, cool, slightly astringent

T: Sweet. Menthol, raisins, leather, watermelon, dried pears, black tea, hints of tobacco leaf.

F: Long. Menthol, watermelon, cinnamon, dried pears, hints of leather.

Comments:

Well now, this is a real treat - 45 years in wood, heaps of flavour, just a little rancio, taking the form of a leather tobacco pouch. I think this is the second release, the first release was just a tad stronger in ABV terms. Age has somehow given this brandy an intense booming flavour profile. It goes on and on and on, I was still tasting this the day after, like the best malt whiskies.

I particularly loved the menthol notes on the tongue and on the finish. It was cooling and refreshing, making this a summer dram rather than a winter one.

Verdict:

Magnificent.

Somerset 5yo Cider Brandy

Somerset 5yo Cider Brandy

Brandy: Cider brandy
From: Somerset
Style: Single distillery
House: Somerset Cider Brandy
Colour: Polished pine
ABV 42%

N: vanilla, honey, fresh cut grass, stewed apples, caramel.

M: Light body, thickens, slippery, warm

T: bitter sour. Fresh cut grass, fresh baked bread, honey, prunes, cinnamon.

F: Short. Prunes, cinnamon, fresh baked bread, vanilla.

Comments:

Turns out that England has apple based spirits too! I love Calvados, the intense appley base flavour, with other fruit and sugary notes layered on top. The base apples contribute a lot to the character of the spirit. Let's see if the same holds true for its English cousin - cider brandy. This spirit is from Somerset, and it looks like it might be the only such producer in the county.

It's different from Calvados, much more herbal and spicy, much less caramel and butterscotch. It's fresher, not as sweet, and is well-aged. I enjoyed this very much, and I look forward to trying the older expressions. I believe there's a 10 year old version, which I'm now going to seek out.

Verdict:

I like this

NAUD VSOP

NAUD VSOP

Brandy: Cognac
From: Grande Champagne
Style: Single distillery
House: NAUD
Colour: Dark amber
ABV: 40%

N: Dried figs, almonds, vanilla, honey, peaches

M: light body, cools, slippery, thickens slightly

T: Sweet salty. Damson jam, dried figs, sea salt, olives, honey, fresh baked bread.

F: Medium. Fresh baked bread, olives, black tea, peaches.

Comments:

This is the best 'young' cognac that I've tried so far. It's around 4 years old, and I must say that it has reinvigorated my interest in young cognacs. I was not overly enamoured with VS and VSOP spirits, because I felt they were harsh, and one dimensional, without the complexity that I like so much. This one though, is very good indeed - lots of fruit, but with an undertone of savouriness, olive brine perhaps, that fades to a bready, sweet-savoury finish.

The house is family-owned, with its own vineyards, and this is of their own make. The quality of the spirit is evidence in the column of owning your own spirit from fruit to bottle, where the master can control all the variables to his or her liking.

Verdict:

I like this a lot.

Villa Zarri 1991 23yo

Villa Zarri 1991 23yo

Brandy: Stravecchio
From: Emilia Romagna
House: Villa Zarri
Style: Single distillery, single vintage
Colour: Copper amber
ABV: 45%

N: Orange peel, red grapes, honeydew melons, pear drops, watermelon skin.

M: Light body, loosens, astringent, tingly.

T: Bitter sweet. Shortcrust pastry, orange blossom honey, orange peel, raisins, watermelon skin, cinnamon, hints of camphor.

F: Long. Orange peel, peaches, honeydew melon, cinnamon.

Comments:

This brandy is... different. It's got far less body than say a cognac of equivalent age, managing somehow to remain light and even airy on the tongue. But the flavours are complex and intense, with plenty of citrus and honey, with something grassy and herbal - let's say watermelon skin. It then eases out slowly and gradually, with a lovely sweet finish with a hint of spice.

Villa Zarri is another vineyard in Emilia Romagna that mostly makes wine, but also makes brandy with its best grapes. I really enjoyed this - it's almost as if brandy is a side hustle in Italy and Spain, and is made with verve and love, tasting truly excellent. Let's call this one magnificent, at least for my palate.

Verdict:

Magnificent.

Chateau de Laubade 1992

Chateau de Laubade 1992

Brandy: Armagnac
Region: Bas Armagnac
House: Chateau de Laubade
Style: Single distillery, single vintage
Colour: Amber red
ABV: 40%

N: Raisins, blueberries, strawberries, honey, peaches, vanilla, hints of cinnamon.

M: Light body, astringent, hot, thickens.

T: Sweet sour. Raisins, blueberries, strawberries, peaches, honey, orange peel.

F: Medium. Walnuts, camphor, honey, blueberries.

Comments:

This is a blast from the past - I tasted this armagnac on 21 October 2009, somewhere. No, I can't quite remember where either, it was probably as a digestif in a restaurant. It was probably the first vintage armagnac I'd ever had, and I clearly found it incredibly fruity. Lots of sweet estery notes, although not much of that classic armagnac pruneaux notes.

I noted at the time that it didn't share many characteristics with the previous Chateau de Laubade (age statement only, no vintage) that I'd had, save for a wave of orange peel. I'm not sure my palate has advanced since then - I may now be able to distinguish between armagnac and cognac (mostly) but I still could not tell the difference between distilleries or producers. To be honest, it's still hit and miss with whisky.

Verdict:

I like this.

Ragnaud Sabourin No 4 VS

Ragnaud Sabourin No 4 VS

Brandy: Cognac
From: Grande Champagne
House: Ragnaud Sabourin
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Copper
ABV: 41%

N: Raisins, white grapes, green apples, cloves, cinnamon.

M: Light body, cool, loosens, slightly astringent.

T: Sweet sour. White grapes, green apples, damson jam, cinnamon, hints of vanilla, hints of guava.

F: Medium. Cacao nibs, vanilla, damson jam, white grapes.

Comments:

A rather young cognac, around 2 years old. The youngest in the range, I believe, which explains its pale colour. The flavour is not as anaemic though, there's green fruit, jam, and some spice, with a chocolatey finish.

I got this sample before I went off younger cognacs, and it would have been a waste not to sample it. I was pleasantly surprised, however - there's a fair bit to this cognac, and certainly more than one layer, so to speak. I had to work reasonably hard to get down to the tropical fruit, it wasn't quite as obvious as, say, the green apples on the tongue. Maybe there's something to younger brandy after all.

Verdict:

I like this.

Barsol Quebranta Primero

Barsol Quebranta Primero

Brandy: Pisco
From: Ica
House: Barsol
Style:
Colour: Colourless
ABV: 41.3%

N: cornflakes, thyme, raisins, hay, dried orange peel.

M: Medium body, warm, slippery, loosens.

T: Salty. Cornflakes, fresh cut grass, fresh baked bread, green tomatoes, hay.

F: Short. Hay, dried orange peel, thyme, green apples.

Comments:

I've never had pisco outside a pisco sour. Perhaps that's the best place for it, but I'm not convinced - anyone who goes to the trouble of distilling a spirit must mean for at least some of it to be consumed neat. Pisco can't be aged in wood either, so this represents the pure skill of the distiller.

This one is not quite what I expected. I though neat pisco would be sweet and floral, but this is actually quite savoury and herbal. The sweet notes are present in cereally notes reminiscent of cornflakes, which quickly fade to grassy, herbal, umami notes.

I quite enjoyed this, I think neat pisco is a good addition to my set of brandy tasting notes. More to come, in the near future.

Verdict:

I like this.

Godet VSOP Original

Godet VSOP Original

Brandy: Cognac
From: Bois Ordinaires
House: Godet
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Amber
ABV: 40%

N: Honey, raisins, sugarcane, sandalwood, hints of sea salt.

M: Medium body, astringent, sticky, tingly.

T: Sweet. Peach jam, sugarcane, desiccated coconut, rose bonbons, hints of sandalwood.

F: Long. Raisins, peach jam, sugarcane, hints of sea salt.

Comments:

This is the first cognac I've had from this region, the Bois Ordinaires, apparently one of the lesser known, lower quality regions. The best cognacs purportedly come from Grande Champagne or Petite Champagne, and yes, those that I've tried are very good indeed. But as with whisky, I suspect brandies from lesser known regions have to be of higher quality in order to compete with those from more famous regions, and I wanted to test this theory.

I'm happy to report that this cognac does indeed support my theory. Of course there's no 'proof' as it were, and I think that you'd have to taste thousands of different cognacs before you could be sure there was substance to it, but this cognac is a data point in favour. It's sweet, but has definite complexity. According to the internet it's about 10 years old, and I taste rose bonbons, peach jam, and desiccated coconut. It's almost rum-like it its sweetness, it's pure sucrose, leavened with a pinch of salt.

Verdict:

I like this.

Louis Royer VS

Louis Royer VS

Brandy: Cognac
From: All
House: Louis Royer
Style: Blend
Colour: Amber
ABV: 40%

N: raisins, honey, blackcurrant cordial, orange blossom, hints of caramel.

M: Medium body, thickens, slippery, cool.

T: Sweet. Honey, orange blossom, sugarcane, raisins, hints of palm sugar.

F: Long. Sugarcane, caramel, orange blossom, vanilla,

Comments:

I'm not keen on additives to my spirit, or indeed on any messing around with it, except for wood. I prefer my whisky free of caramel (colour be damned), and ideally unchillfiltered. Although all the whisky distilleries insist that additives make no difference to taste, I believe that it does. In the same way, I prefer no sugar be added to my brandy, except perhaps for the very narrow exception of Metaxa, and certainly not in my cognac (although I'm not even sure if this is allowed - it probably isn't).

However, this cognac tastes quite sweet, in a slightly unalluring way. Sweet notes of sugarcane are the predominant flavour, although there is something floral underneath. There's caramel as well, something really quite strong. Perhaps my palate can't quite capture the nuances of this cognac yet, but I didn't really enjoy it - too sweet perhaps, and certainly not very interesting.

Verdict:

Not bad.

H by Hine VSOP

H by Hine VSOP

Brandy: Cognac
From: All
House: Hine
Style: Blend
Colour: Amber gold
ABV: 40%

N: cinnamon, cloves, apple blossom, lilies, peaches, merlot grapes.

M: Light body, cool, slightly astringent, loose.

T: Sweet. Peaches, apple blossom, fresh baked bread, honey, lilies, hints of cloves.

F: Short. Green tea, merlot grapes, orange peel, hints of raisins.

Comments:

An introductory expression from one of the four great cognac houses, one that I found very impressive. It's touted as one of the most floral of Hine's cognacs, and it's not just floral, it's spiced as well - heavily so. Lots of cinnamon and cloves, fruit and even the most intense note of lilies.

I must say, as far as introductory expressions go, this is extremely good. It's a mystery to me why some of the cheaper cognacs are lacklustre, after all they're meant to entice people to drink more cognac, and more expensive cognac to boot. If one is apathetic about the drink as a whole it's hardly going to make one buy more.

Anyway, here's to Hine and Frapin, two houses with extremely interesting introductory expressions. Yes, I will certainly concentrate on those in the future.

Verdict:

I like this a lot.

Ragnaud Sabourin VSOP

Ragnaud Sabourin VSOP

Brandy: Cognac
From: Grande Champagne
House: Ragnaud Sabourin
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Amber rose
ABV: 41%

N: Camphor, raisins, black tea, butter, hints of peach.

M: Medium body, cool, astringent, thickens slightly.

T: Bitter sweet. Raisins, butter, blueberries, peaches, camphor, hints of cinnamon.

F: Medium. Peaches, raisins, cinnamon, hints of sea salt.

Comments:

My first cognac from this rather small house, with exclusive vineyards in the Grande Champagne region. All very exciting!

This cognac is rather herbal, with big bass notes of camphor, alongside buttery fruit. The camphor is almost acrid in its intensity, but in a good way. It's bittersweet, intense and flavourful, fading to a spicy, salty finish. Excellent stuff.

Verdict:

I like this a lot.

Comte de Ferragut 3 Star

Comte de Ferragut 3 Star

Brandy: Armagnac
From: ?
House: Comte de Ferragut
Style: Blend
Colour: Amber
ABV: 40%

N: Butterscotch, vanilla, caramel, hints of chocolate

T: Medium body, loosens slightly, slippery, warm

F: Sweet. Raisins, vanilla, butter, cocoa, peach jam.

T: Short. Cocoa, raisins, butterscotch, hints of black tea.

Comments:

This armagnac is from a mystery house. Much googling and searching in reference books only leads me to sale listings, and a reference on the famous Whiskyfun website that says, in effect, "never heard of this house". It's a 3 star, so a VS in old money, rather young, probably under 4 years old.

The brandy is not bad per se, it's quite substantial for young spirit. There's plenty of chocolate, almost malty chocolate, alongside plenty of fruit, including some very interesting notes of peach jam. I quite enjoyed this.

Verdict:

I like this.

Máxime Trijol VSOP

Máxime Trijol VSOP

Brandy: Cognac
From: Grande Champagne
House: Máxime Trijol
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Amber gold
ABV: 40%

N: Vanilla, black tea, honeysuckle, dried apricots, leather, thyme.

M: Light body, loose, thickens slightly, a little sticky.

T: Sweet. Dried apricots, cherries, honey, raisins, sugar cane.

F: Medium. Sugar cane, honey, cherries, hints of thyme.

Comments:

I file this VSOP as 'in between' the last XO I had and the last VS I had. I suppose this means that age designations do work, in some general sense, with brandies. Indeed, based on the limited sample that I've had so far, they are surprisingly reliable. I found that I could tell older brandies from younger, simply from how the flavours meshed together. However, within the categories, it was difficult to pinpoint relative age.

Anyway, I found this particular brandy quite intensely sweet. It was perhaps even a little sickly, although it remained just the right side of the line for me. The top-notes were dried stone fruit, even some sugar cane, but there was sufficient herby fragrance to keep it interesting.

Verdict:

I like this.

Frapin Chateau de Fontpinot XO

Frapin Chateau de Fontpinot XO

Brandy: Cognac
From: Grande Champagne
House: Frapin
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Amber, red highlights
ABV: 41%

N: raisins, figs, dried apricots, dried orange peel, cinnamon, dark chocolate.

M: light body, slippery, loose, tingly.

T: Bitter sweet. Raisins, figs, almonds, elderflower, orange peel, hints of coffee.

F: Medium. Figs, elderflower, cinnamon, coffee, hints of dark chocolate.

Comments:

This is my first Frapin, a very first taste of what the smallest of the great cognac houses can do. Rather surprisingly, it's superb. This is an XO, but it's not a particularly premium one. Yet it's intense and rounded, yet refreshing and light. There is a gigantic wedge of dried fruit, shoved into my mouth, but it's offset with some floral, spicy notes, even some slightly bitter top-notes reminiscent of coffee and dark chocolate.

This brandy has something I prize very much - complexity allied to intensity. There are many interesting dimensions to explore, and I very much enjoyed sitting contemplatively with the glass in my hand. The pleasure I derived from nosing, tasting and thinking this beauty was immense. I look forward to trying more brandies from this house.

Verdict:

I like this a lot.

Jules Gautret VS Cognac

Jules Gautret VS Cognac

Brandy: Cognac
From: Petite Champagne
House: Jules Gautret
Style: Blend
Colour: Dark gold
ABV: 40%

N: raisins, soy sauce, nail varnish, cloves, lemon zest.

M: light body, slippery, loosens, cool.

T: bitter sour. Lemon zest, pear drops, brown paper, white grapes, hints of cookie dough.

F: short. Fresh baked bread, soy sauce, white grapes, sultanas, vanilla.

Comments:

This brandy is marked VS, and it's about 2 years old. I've not had many this young, and I don't think I will going forward. There's a balanced quality to aged spirits, something very pleasant and mellow, like time somehow melds the flavour notes together, rounding off all the harsh edges and making them fit more harmoniously.

Instead, this brandy is unbalanced, lots of flavour notes that clash, one on top of the other. It's a little confusing. However, all the components of a great spirit are there - the fruit, the texture, the spice - and it just needs some time to come together.

Verdict:

Not bad.

Roger Groult Reserve

Roger Groult Reserve

Brandy: Calvados
From: Pays d'Auge
House: Roger Groult
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Pale green gold
ABV: 40%

N: Green apples, raisins, cloves, camphor, peaches, fresh cut grass.

M: Light body, warm, volatile, tingly.

T: Bitter. Cloves, cinnamon, camphor, pomegranate molasses, vanilla, thyme.

F: Short. Camphor, cocoa nibs, green apples, pomegranate molasses.

Comments:

I've recorded some thoughts on a couple of expressions in the premium end of the Roger Groult range, and it's time to have a taste of the entry level expression. This is probably less than 3 years old. It smells fantastic, rich, herbal and complex. There's very malic green apples, some sweet peaches, and so many vegetal, herbal notes.

On the tongue however, the sweet notes largely disappear, and the herbal notes take over. It's spicy and fragrant though, with a slightly harsh under-note of camphor, very reminiscent of Chinese herbal medicine. The apples and other fruity notes reappear on the finish, alongside bitter cocoa.

So, for Roger Groult at least, the premium expressions hold up by maintaining the beautiful intense notes on the nose through to the tongue. For this brandy, the herbal, bitter notes take over. It's not unpleasant though, and I enjoyed the chance to taste a different sort of calvados.

Verdict:

I like this.

Vecchia Romagna 35yo Riserva

Vecchia Romagna 35yo Riserva

Brandy: Stravecchio
From: Emilia Romagna
House: Vecchia Romagna
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Amber gold
ABV: 40%

N: damson jam, raisins, dried apricots, cinnamon, blackberry cordial, hints of konbu.

M: Heavy body, slippery, unctuous, mouth coating.

T: Sweet salty. Damson jam, cinnamon, black tea, konbu, dried apricots, cornflakes, hints of dark chocolate.

F: Long. Cinnamon, dried apricots, cornflakes, black tea, hints of mint.

Comments:

Time - there's nothing like it for aging spirits, and it's as true for brandy as it is for whisky. Time passes quicker in wood than in glass, although it does pass in glass. 35 years in wood has made this brandy smooth and unctuous, lipsmackingly good in the mouth. It's no slouch on the tongue either, chockful of dried apricots and cinnamon, with a savoury hint of konbu.

Time has a flavour, although it's undefinable. It's almost a merging of flavours, a shaving off of harsh edges, somehow blending all the various flavour notes into a harmonious whole. And you can always tell, I think, if a lot of time has gone into a particular spirit.

Verdict:

Magnificent.

Metaxa 7 Stars

Metaxa 7 Stars

Brandy: Greek Brandy
From: Athens
House: Metaxa
Style: Single distillery, infusion
Colour: Amber
ABV: 40%

N: honey, red grapes, thyme, orange peel, pistachio, hints of mastic.

M: medium body, slippery, loosens, mouth filling.

T: Sweet. Thyme, honey, orange peel, pine, marmalade, rose, raisins, hints of star anise.

F: Short. Mint, pistachio, mastic, orange peel, red grapes.

Comments:

Is this a brandy or not? Well, I don't know. It's not pure spirit though, it's a mixture of distillate of different ages, and fortified, aromatised wines (vermouth?). I can certainly taste a number of botanicals, and the clarity of flavour must certainly come from the infusion of those botanicals rather than happenstance of aging.

I guess it's closest to brandy, so it counts for the purposes of this blog, and since I can't find any other Greek brandy brands (except maybe some very rare pomace brandies, I'm going to go ahead and call it Greek brandy.

It's very herbal indeed, and sweet to boot. Maybe it's an acquired taste. I drank an entire sample with an open mind, and I certainly enjoyed the clear, strong botanical flavours.

Verdict:

I like this.

Hermitage 2005 Chez Richon

Hermitage 2005 Chez Richon

Brandy: Cognac
From: Grande Champagne
House: Hermitage
Style: Single vintage
Colour: Amber red
ABV: 40%

N: Red grapes, black tea, soy sauce, tangerines, hints of coffee.

M: Light body, loosens, slippery, slightly tingly.

T: Sweet salty. Toffee, red grapes, peaches, black tea, coffee, hints of chocolate.

F: Medium. Chocolate, black tea, tangerines, hints of soy sauce.

Comments:

In the whisky world, the role played by a blender is somewhat underappreciated, because most blends that people encounter tend to be aimed at the casual drinker rather than the enthusiast, and therefore are priced at a relatively low point. And because one gets what one pays for, they taste accordingly. But there are some amazing blends out there, because the blender's skill is to showcase a certain style of whisky by combining alright, good, and spectacular distillates in such a way that the result is delicious.

In the brandy world, I have less intuition for the role a negociant plays, but I understood a little more after tasting this brandy. It's really very good indeed. It's young, I wouldn't say it's XO, but it's got a deep richness of flavour with savoury umami notes that burst on the tongue. There's also some bitter complexity in the finish that I enjoyed very much.

Must find some more expressions from Hermitage - older ones, if the young brandies are anything to go by. The oldies must be truly spectacular.

Verdict:

I like this a lot.

Maltbarn Lot 86 no 137 (Vallein Tercinier 32yo 1986/2019)

Maltbarn Lot 86 no 137 (Vallein Tercinier 32yo 1986/2019)

Brandy: Cognac
From: Bons Bois
House: Vallein Tercinier
Style: Single distillery, single vintage
Colour: Dark gold
ABV: 44.5%

N: Raisins, leather, sea salt, Roquefort cheese, rancio, peach cobbler

M: Light body, slippery, cool, tingly.

T: Sweet. Raisins, prunes, peach cobbler, marmalade, rancio, leather.

F: Long. Black pepper, black tea, leather, marmalade.

Comments:

This is something slightly different, and maybe more what I'm used to. It's brandy, bottled by a whisky specialist. Maltbarn is a German independent bottler, and this is their first brandy that I've tasted. I gather they partner with Vallein Tercinier, a cognac house that is both a negociant and a distiller with their own vineyards. This particular expression is, like single cask whiskies, bottled from the Vallein Tercinier vineyards in the Bon Bois region, of a single year's vintage, with a specific age statement.

It's also the strongest brandy that I've sampled so far (if only just), and I have to say that the additional couple of percent of strength does make a difference. The flavours are rounder, starker, and more intense. No water required either, for me, although I know that this is probably personal to me, and a legacy of years of killing my taste buds with cask strength whisky.

The 32 years of aging stands out, there's a lovely leathery note, with a rather strong and fragrant blue cheese note on the nose. This is very well-defined rancio. Alongside, there are heaps of jammy, fruity notes, with perhaps a smattering of floral flavours as well.

Verdict:

I like this a lot.

Chateau de Laubade XO 15yo

Chateau de Laubade XO 15yo

Brandy: Armagnac
From: Bas Armagnac
House: Chateau de Laubade
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Amber red
ABV: 40%

N: Orange peel, soy sauce, strawberries, black pepper, roast ham, menthol.

M: Light body, thickens in the mouth, slightly oily.

T: Sweet sour. Orange peel, strawberries, menthol, marmalade.

F: Medium. Strawberries, roses.

Comments:

I drank this brandy a decade ago. I don't know exactly where, but it was probably a restaurant somewhere in London. My tasting notes are slightly odd:

" Very salty and strong in the nose, with a sharp bite of menthol. Once tasted however, this armagnac becomes a different creature - sweet on the tongue, with a little teasing hints of mint as a reminder of the robust, salty, tangy nose. The finish is also quite gentle, although it would be hard to top that first whiff from the lip of the glass!"

It's interesting to see how much my palate has changed. I feel I understand layers better, and I have more patience, simply sipping and letting the flavours develop in my mouth. It would be interesting to taste this brandy again to see what I would record, but I believe it has been discontinued, more's the pity.

Verdict:

I like this a lot.

Cardenal Mendoza Solera Gran Reserva

Cardenal Mendoza Solera Gran Reserva

Brandy: Brandy de Jerez
From: Jerez
House: Sanchez Romate
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Dark amber, hints of red
ABV: 42%

N: Raisins, red grapes, walnuts, candied oranges, orange blossom honey, dark chocolate, hints of iron filings.

M: Heavy body, syrupy, cool, mouth coating.

T: Sweet. Walnuts, walnut skins, raisins, rum and raisin ice cream, dark chocolate, orange blossom honey, hints of lemon curd.

F: Long. Red grapes, walnut skins, iron filings, candied oranges, fresh baked bread.

Comments:

Well, this is a lot like its sibling, the Carta Real. I believe that one is older, yet I felt this, the Solera Gran Reserva, had many more layers, despite it being relatively less intense. There were at least three distinct layers, or flavour groups. The first, and most obvious, was the intense sweetness, almost reminiscent of Pedro Ximenez sherry. This first layer had overtones of red grapes, raisins and orange honey. Then, there was a bitter, slightly metallic layer underneath that, mostly dark chocolate and walnuts. And last of all, something citrusy and light, which lifted the brandy for me.

Is it possible to find too many flavour notes in your spirit? Perhaps. If so, this one may be the example that proves the rule. Taking a step back and looking at my tasting notes, I am baffled as to how many flavour notes I managed to find. Normally, it's no more than 4 to 5 per category, but here I am pushing 6 or 7. Yet I distinctly remember tasting them. This brandy is certainly unusual in its complexity, and I really enjoyed drinking it.

Verdict:

Magnificent.