Villa Zarri 1991 23yo

Villa Zarri 1991 23yo

Brandy: Stravecchio
From: Emilia Romagna
House: Villa Zarri
Style: Single distillery, single vintage
Colour: Copper amber
ABV: 45%

N: Orange peel, red grapes, honeydew melons, pear drops, watermelon skin.

M: Light body, loosens, astringent, tingly.

T: Bitter sweet. Shortcrust pastry, orange blossom honey, orange peel, raisins, watermelon skin, cinnamon, hints of camphor.

F: Long. Orange peel, peaches, honeydew melon, cinnamon.

Comments:

This brandy is... different. It's got far less body than say a cognac of equivalent age, managing somehow to remain light and even airy on the tongue. But the flavours are complex and intense, with plenty of citrus and honey, with something grassy and herbal - let's say watermelon skin. It then eases out slowly and gradually, with a lovely sweet finish with a hint of spice.

Villa Zarri is another vineyard in Emilia Romagna that mostly makes wine, but also makes brandy with its best grapes. I really enjoyed this - it's almost as if brandy is a side hustle in Italy and Spain, and is made with verve and love, tasting truly excellent. Let's call this one magnificent, at least for my palate.

Verdict:

Magnificent.

Vecchia Romagna 35yo Riserva

Vecchia Romagna 35yo Riserva

Brandy: Stravecchio
From: Emilia Romagna
House: Vecchia Romagna
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Amber gold
ABV: 40%

N: damson jam, raisins, dried apricots, cinnamon, blackberry cordial, hints of konbu.

M: Heavy body, slippery, unctuous, mouth coating.

T: Sweet salty. Damson jam, cinnamon, black tea, konbu, dried apricots, cornflakes, hints of dark chocolate.

F: Long. Cinnamon, dried apricots, cornflakes, black tea, hints of mint.

Comments:

Time - there's nothing like it for aging spirits, and it's as true for brandy as it is for whisky. Time passes quicker in wood than in glass, although it does pass in glass. 35 years in wood has made this brandy smooth and unctuous, lipsmackingly good in the mouth. It's no slouch on the tongue either, chockful of dried apricots and cinnamon, with a savoury hint of konbu.

Time has a flavour, although it's undefinable. It's almost a merging of flavours, a shaving off of harsh edges, somehow blending all the various flavour notes into a harmonious whole. And you can always tell, I think, if a lot of time has gone into a particular spirit.

Verdict:

Magnificent.

Vecchia Romagna 25yo Riserva

Vecchia Romagna 25yo Riserva

Brandy: Stravecchio
From: Emilia Romagna
House: Vecchia Romagna
Style: Single distillery
Colour: Oolong tea
ABV: 40%

N: Raisins, red grapes, dark chocolate, orange zest, vanilla, pear drops, hints of rose.

M: Medium body, slippery, tingly, warm.

T: Bitter sweet. Dark chocolate, orange zest, oolong tea, hints of coffee, hints of leather.

F: Long. Orange zest, butterscotch, leather, oolong tea, coffee.

Comments:

Oddly, for a country with a long and storied brandy making tradition, Italy does not seem to have an accepted term for grape brandy. Pomace brandy, is, of course, grappa, but brandy distilled from grape wine within the borders of Italy seems to be known by the brand of the producer. However, there are a couple of sources that seem to use 'stravecchio' as a term for grape brandy, so that's what I shall use. It's also a brand of brandy, Stravecchio Branca, made by the famous Fratelli Branca distillers, who also make Fernet Branca.

This stravecchio brandy comes from Emilia Romagna, from a winery that makes its spirit Cognac-style, aging it in French oak. The result of 25 years in wood is stunning. The spirit itself is robust, and stands up to all that aging, with notes of orange, tea, and coffee, over a subtle hint of leather. It's rather in the style of aged whiskies that I, a brandy novice, find familiar, comforting and enjoyable.

Verdict:

I like this a lot.